Wednesday, January 13, 2010

January 13 Nelson's Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua

On Monday we left Falmouth Harbour and came back around the corner to English Harbour, where we pulled into Nelson’s Dockyard Marina. This dockyard, named after Admiral Horatio Nelson, is a national park which served the British Navy during the 17th and 18th centuries. Having the ability to completely repair and refit vessels locally in the Caribbean allowed the Brits to maintain a fleet at the ready to chase off French scalawags and privateers. They probably didn’t speak English back then either but cannon fire is an effective and universal language. Reminds of a line from a movie. "God didn't make men equal, Sam Colt did." But I digress.
This was also a Mediterranean moor and we are getting pretty good at the sport. This one has a different twist as you first drop anchor about 150 feet out and slowly back into you (tight) spot. Actually much easier than tring to feed out a line and back in. Hakuna Matata does not back very well so the dockmaster kindly gave us a nudge or two with his dinghy to keep us straight. Once we were secured with stern lines, he took a line out to the mooring ball and we were all set. It is really something to watch the 100foot+ sailboats do this maneuver, even if they have cheater bow thrusters. They do not get dinghy nudges.
We are immediately beset by men who want to clean stainless, scrub the hull or do whatever odd jobs we might need performed. It is hard to justify that expense when we have pulled in to have a high dollar marine survey. There is one lady, though, we cannot resist. The laundry lady. She leaves her throne under the shade tree and approaches each boat upon arrival to offer her services. Then she dispatches her helper to retrieve and deliver the laundry. More than likely she works all night actually doing the laundry but otherwise she spends her day under the tree, holding court. She is quite the queen at 81yo. Elizabeth has nothing on her. To that queen, though, we have observed a most interesting ritual that is performed precisely at 6pm every single day. The first time I saw it I thought somebody had died. All the British cruisers dress very nicely (dress shoes. slacks. belts even), dinghy to shore and gather for a “tot” to toast the Queen of England. Very civilized.

Totting the Queen and the real queen...





Views from Hakuna Matata:












We have not done the fort yet. These are shots from walking around the dockyard. This anchor marks the spot of a duel in which one man was killed. They were quibbling over rank. Petty!








This is a capstan. They did not have multi-ton travel lifts back in the day, so they "careened" the ships with capstans like this one so they could scrub the bottom and apply new tar and paint. One man sat in the middle singing to keep time while the rest of the men pushed the capstan.











This is the sawmill, now serving as a sail loft. They would roll the trees up the hill to get them inside.


All of the buildings have been restored and serve some modern purpose. There are restaurants, small inns, a market, a bakery, a spa, souvenir shops and marine businesses. Cruise ship people come over by the bus load for day tours.



The survey went very well. There is a small thing with the standing rigging up by the spreaders and we are having that addressed tomorrow. A screw need to be reset with some lock tite. Craig officially has a screw loose. I refuse to go up the mast and I ain't hoisting him up there either. I might have to reconsider that position when we get the bill....I just can't do it!!


Thursday, January 7, 2010

January 5 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua

We left Isles de la Petite Terre on the night of Jan 4 for a 90 mile run to Antigua. It was another smooth downwind passage with passage brownies, 12knot winds and calm seas. We arrived at English Harbour, tired after this all-nighter, to find it so crowded with boats that we could not anchor in our comfort zone. Further, there are large underwater chains in the harbour that were placed at the turn of the century to “catch” boats during hurricanes. Their placement is ambiguous on the charts and we certainly don’t want to hook one accidentally. Several attempts left us frustrated and cranky. Fortunately, Falmouth Harbour was a quick 45 minute motor around the corner. Much better! Lots of space and prettier water. Sometimes things just work out better than planned. The marinas here cater to super-yachts and there are plenty around, sitting dead in the marinas, waiting for charters that according to a local cab driver, just aren’t happening. We have scouted the local area and are hanging around here for a bit of business. We need a marine survey to renew our insurance. We received this notice only a month prior to renewal. It would have been nice to have gotten this notice while we were hauled out in Grenada, where things were crazy cheap and before we put $1200 worth of soft paint on the bottom which can get seriously messed up by the haul-out straps. “Discussion” with the broker regarding short notice ensued…they will accept an in-water survey and so we have lined up the work and will pull into a marina next week. Pull in and plug in.

The "toy" garage on a superyacht. Dig the slide they put into action. As if the slide itself is not enough, some guys were doing it on wakeboards. The ER nurse in me thinks three story fall. Water is a hard surface. That is going to leave a mark.





































These boats, while beautiful and pristine, are just sitting in slips, waiting for paying guests because the owners are off working to pay the operating expenses. It is stupefying. Here is a brief math lesson.
1. This marina is $2US/foot/day. The average boat is 200 feet long. The monthly berthing expense is _________.
2. Electricity is $0.50/kilowatt hour. Who knows what they use, but having experienced that rate in Grenada, Hakuna Matata pays $150/week. Just guess: __________.
3. The average captain's salary is $1000/foot/year. For a 200 foot boat, the captain's annual salary is ________.
Bonus question: Add in the 5-7 stewards, engineers and deck hands that are also on board. Who knows what their going rates are. Just guess:___________.
We are scouting the area but sving serious exploration until Brian Grothe's arrival on Jan 15th.
More to follow.....

January 2 Iles de la Petite Terre, Guadloupe

Happy New Year!!!
On January 2 we sail about 25 miles in a northerly direction to Iles de la Petite Terre. These are two extremely remote and unoccupied islands that are a national park and are not routinely visited by cruisers. Reportedly similar to the Tobago Cays, we are compelled to investigate.
The entrance is crazy wicked scary!! The waves crash over the narrow and shallow entrance and you pretty much have to shoot the surf to get in and out. I guess that is one thing when you have twin 250's on a go-fast something-something but another thing altogether with our much-loved and reliable 44 Yanmar. It is hard to hold a course when the waves are tossing the boat about like a toy but we make it through (Craig reigns supreme at the helm) and the trip is worth it. There is only room for about 15 boats in here and use of the mooring balls is required (free, though). There are still a couple of day charter boats upon our arrival but they leave in the late afternoon. By 5pm we have the entire place to ourselves….not one other boat, until about 930am the next day. It is Sunday and they arrive in droves, holiday weekend and all. Most of them leave in the afternoon and there are 3 other boats with us the next night. Our new favorite place ever.

Here is the entrance on the books (please note 7 foot depth) and an out-bound cat shooting through:
































There is a lighthouse on one of the two islands, supposedly the oldest one in continuous operation, since 1828. The islands here are also known for the iguana population although they do not attack red-painted toes like they do in the Bahamas. We were also visited by a particularly audacious banana quit.

































The other side of the island/lighthouse:




















Antigua Bound!!