Sunday, May 17, 2009

Salinas, PR and Spanish Virgin Islands

We ran a few errands in Salinas, PR prior to setting sail for the Spanish Virgin Islands. We found a marine supply store and replaced the recently deceased little horn that came with the Signal Mate (automatic signaling device) we bought at the Miami Boat Show. This one is much better and right on time.


Isn't that cute, frigate birds sqatting on masts (read: broken wind equipment)



Audible for miles. Necessary equipment to be sure, but then, Craig may have been harboring a secret jealousy for my chopperette horn...





We left on schedule around 6:30 for our passage. It was a relatively smooth ride until the wee hours of the morning. Craig sailed us through a few squalls and then it was my watch. Uh-oh. My goals are to not wake up the captain and to not die of fright. While one can see it coming, zip the enclosure and mentally prepare, it is another thing altogether to be completely and suddenly engulfed in a wall of rain traveling at 30 knots. In case anyone is wondering exactly what comprises a squall, here is a pictorial expose, complete with a post-storm rainbow:
















Our first port of call is Vieques. This island is 7 miles off the Puerto Rican coast and has a colorful history, including until 2003 as being used by the US Navy for bombing practice. There is no evidence of this visible now but the cruising guides are very explicit about potentially dropping anchors on unexploded ordinance. Conveniently, they have installed free mooring balls. We take one. There are only 2 other boats, S/V Pacific Quest and S/V Bold Endeavor. We spend a day snorkeling, spearfishing and collecting conch and then make plans for a beach cookout and bonfire. We meet Roy and Dune of Bold Endeavor and from New Zealand. Roy, as it turns out, is the most right-wing conservative I have ever met.

The captain at work and play.










Vieques.







Cookout on the beach (snapper, chicken, conch rice, bean salad); the pyro twins; President Roy and us by the fire:







Monday, May 11, 2009

May5-10 Puerto Rico

Time to check into a new country! Boqueron does not have customs/immigration, so along with S/V Pacific Quest, we hire a driver (Raul) to take us to Mayaguez, about 30 minutes up the road. We do not pay to check into a US territory but it does take some time to grind through passports and boat documentation. Afterwards, we run by a large market to re-provision the boat. While Puerto Rico definitely has the flavor of the islands, it is nice to have the modern conveniences associated with life in America (read: grocery stores). Skip was able to secure a flight from Mayaguez to San Juan for his trip home to Texas. We have enjoyed his company and assistance with our passages! Craig takes Skip to the dinghy dock at 0530 to meet Raul to start his journey home. It is rainy and we spend a couple of days in Boqueron, doing laundry, jerry-jugging fuel to the boat and meeting other cruisers.
On Friday, May 8 we continue on our eastward journey along the southern coast of Puerto Rico, leaving at 0600 with S/V Falcon. We travel to a small anchorage at Gilligan’s Island (because it supposedly looks like that and a man who used to work there looks like Gilligan) arriving at 1pm.
The beach at Boqueron, and first light for our early departure:




On Saturday, May 9 we travel to Ponce (pon-say), the second largest city in Puerto Rico. It is fun to catch back up with S/V Pacific Quest who had left Boqueron 2 days prior. We pull into a marina and top off the tanks and jugs with diesel and decide to tie up in a slip for the night. Shore power and air conditioners!! The boat has barely come to rest in the slip before the cord is out and 22,000 BTUs are blasting away. It was like being in a meat packing plant but felt really good since it is 90F and for the first time during this adventure, I feel the sting of summer on my skin. I had also found some hair dye in Mayaguez and am anxious to color all the gray hair Craig is giving me. I did not want to do it on the boat for fear of staining fiberglass, and why jack up my bathroom when I can jack up someone else’s? Ultimately, the facilities were too far to figure out, so this was a dock and garden hose job. We took a cab into town on a quest and wound up at a mall. Well. All I can say is that it was just like being home in Dallas because there we were, in a crazy-crowded mall, surrounded by strollers, kids effecting the gangsta-rap look and people who don’t speak English, buying superfluous junk they neither need nor can afford. I gasped when I saw Anne Taylor Loft, and then realized there was nothing in there I needed or could afford either….We return to the boat and following sundowners, hit a local restaurant with S/V Falcon and Pacific Quest.
The stair lift at the Ponce Yacht Club Restaurant...girls have to do what girls have got to do:










Sunday, up early again to go to Salinas a small village with a large anchorage and marinas. Everything is closed for Mother’s Day, but Craig and I enjoy a walkabout. There is a town square and a small festival, complete with a salsa band. We are down to our last bottle of rum, a trial fifth recommended by aforementioned Raul as very good. It tastes like Raid. We will commence a search for Cruzan, our current favorite.
Not sure how it will turn out on the computer screen...this boat has royal purple canvas. It may fade in the unrelenting sun, but it sure looks good today:








A shaved ice vendor in the market square where a Mother's Day celebration was underway:













Local color and yard art from our walkabout in Salinas:






















I am writing today from Cruiser’s Galley, a cafĂ© and internet hot spot. We are leaving at 7pm tonight for a 45 mile run to the Spanish Virgin Islands. Neither of us have been there and are very excited. These islands are very remote, being accessible only by boat. We are very much looking forward to a week wandering around there and hope to get in some diving and lobstering. It may be St. Thomas, USVI before we can update, so keep checking in!

Thursday, May 7, 2009

May 5: Boqueron, Puerto Rico

We left Samana about 6pm Sunday for the Mona Passage. A brief dolphin escort ensured safe passage. This part of the passage is what all the weather hype is about, being a large area with an hourglass shoal that is 200 feet deep. The surrounding seas are 12,000 feet deep and can cause quite a ruckus when they collide with the shoal. We did not experience any of that. Seas were calm at 4 feet and winds were light at 10 knots. We motorsailed all night Sunday, and all day Monday. We did not anticipate arrival to Boqeron, Puerto Rico until very late Monday night(midnight). Safely over the shoal, though, the winds built to 15-20 knots, 60 degrees off our beam. Saddle up, it’s time to ride!! We screamed across Puerto Rican waters and had the anchor set by 7pm. My friends from Grapevine, Donn and Kitty King of S/V Falcon, were waiting for us and quickly arrived on the scene with a fresh bottle of rum for thirsty and tired sailors.
S/V Pacific Quest under way









Crossing the Mona Passage











Believe it!!









Arrival to Boqueron, Perto Rico





















S/V Falcon









April 30: Luperon to Samana

The winds and seas laid down enough by April 30 that we could begin our passage to Puerto Rico. We left about 6pm Thursday, April 30 for the 55 mile first leg. While the big group of boats had decided to wait another day, Ross and Fran of S/V Pacific Quest joined us for the trip. They are 27 and 25, from Australia and New Zealand, and met while crewing a 200 foot power yacht as engineer and purser. It was still very rough upon leaving Luperon harbor, heading into 8 foot seas and 20knot winds. It calmed down 2 hours later and we settled into our night passage. We arrived in Rio San Juan about 7am with plans for sleep and sustenance before leaving that evening.
We left Rio San Juan about 6pm, heading for Escondido but with such good weather conditions that we decided to push on to Samana, the last port of call for us in the Dominican Republic. This was about 75 miles and we arrived around 10am. We slept. The next day, we received a visit from the navy comandancia (sweet digital desert camos but no boat) to check our papers. This boarding crew included a “doctor” to check us for swine flu. She looked smart in a tight capri jeans, low cut clingy shirt, heels and pony tail/ghetto cap ensemble…I guess what all the cool 3rd world doctor fashionistas are wearing this season. We went to shore for lunch and found a buffet that included goat. I have never had this before and it is very tasty. Naps ensued.

Ross and Fran, calm waters in Luperon, boat meeting prior to departure













The entrance, harbour and town of Samana, Dominican Republic
























It is nice to travel with another boat so we can get pictures of our own boat under full sail.