Thursday, February 25, 2010

February 25 Charlotte Amalie Harbour, USVI

We came back to Charlotte Amalie Harbour yesterday, having spent the prior few days back in beautiful Christmas Cove. One of the twist-locks for our enclosure bit Craig hard at the base of his little piggy. It was just this side of needing stitches which I did not want to do…needles in feet are a special kind of pain I reserve for only my worst enemies. Instead, he is on no swimming restrictions and receiving daily wet to dry neosporin dressings. It is healing very nicely. We came back to this busy harbour to eliminate temptation to swim and to prepare for travel over to the Spanish Virgin Islands. They are only 20 miles away or so but mostly desolate (our favorite) so we do our usual…extra provisioning and a fuel dock for this thirsty girl. The harbour bustles with cruise ships and large motor yachts coming into Yacht Haven Grande. Port Louis Marina in Grenada ought to take lessons. This place is pristine and secure. No dinghy engines get stolen here, to be sure. The anchorage is pleasant and calm with many anchored yachts. Even with all the activity, there is a small turtle who swims around my boat ever day and this tern spent the morning with me doing laundry.













For the record, Craig and I have spent the last year eating island fish, island octopus, island conch, island chicken, island pork, island goat, island mystery meat and island stuff I’m not sure what it was…things we caught and things other people caught…from fruity restaurants to roadside grills to momma and son pick-up truck-mobile things…from the Bahamas to Grenada. But every once in a while, something uniquely American catches our eye and a crave starts. It itches like all hell. You scratch and then succumb. Today it was a Hooters. Even completely immersed in island culture as we are, sometimes you just gotta have a hot wing. Craig didn’t mind the eye candy either. So we feasted today on hot wings, debating fake (Craig) v. real yet enhanced by lingerie engineering (Angela). No alcohol involved, so no picture of the hooters in question.












We never tire of the super yachts. We were enjoying a sundowner in the cockpit when we noticed what looked like a helicopter landing on a motor yacht coming into the harbour:















We will leave tomorrow or the next day, depending on wind/weather. We are excited to head to the Spanish Virgins…clean and uncluttered. There are a couple of bays on Vieques that are bioluminescent so that is high on my must-do list. I love seeing phosphorescence in our boat wake and the word in our guide books is that one can swim in the water here and the sparklies stick for a moment. I'll do my best to capture it on film. (Skip. Darling. I need you and that fancy camera pronto!!) Otherwise, we will play and explore...nothing on the schedule until Michael Nauman comes in on March 16th to help us passage from Puerto Rico to Turks and Caicos. That will be quite a run.
More later!

Monday, February 22, 2010

February 18-22 United States Virgin Islands

On February 18th we left Village Key Marina and sailed from Tortola, BVI over to St Thomas, USVI. On the way across the water, we saw a Morgan that looked strangely familiar. We pulled up alongside and it was S/V SoulFish. Augie and his wife lived on their boat down the dock from us in Marathon, Florida. They committed to a life change and are now stationed at Sapphire Bay Resort in St Thomas where he is the sous chef and she is the manager for Office Max. They were on their way to the BVIs for a few days and it was fun to spend a few minutes catching up with them.
We had decided to blow off St John and instead try to catch up with Chris and Kelly on S/V Verna Breeze, friends we met in Grenada. They are now situated in Charlotte Amalie and are taking on charter guests. Check them out at: www.mydreamcharter.com. And if you are in need of a way too fabulous for words to adequately describe boat/island vacation with crazy fun people, book your week on their boat TODAY. We were able to contact them and they were spending an evening in Christmas Cove before heading to the BVIs themselves. We headed for Christmas Cove which is on Great St James Island, off the coast of St Thomas proper. This was a wonderful anchorage with plenty of sea life. Two sting rays were engaged in a turf battle right under our boat. We spent the evening on Verna Breeze and had a great time catching up. The next morning we went scuba diving with Chris. Someone had apparently found Chris’ secret lobster hole but Craig was able to score a huge crab. Feeling magnanimous, we only relieved him of a claw (instead of his life) that was the size of my hand (they grow back). Later that morning, said claw became egg, cheese and crab omelette with toasted bagels.
We went over to Charlotte Amalie Harbour that afternoon to check in but it was too late once we got the anchor set to make it into customs. We walked about town a bit and found a Pizza Hut. There are not too many fast food joints in this part of the world and it has been our experience that none of them can duplicate the flavor, quality and especially the truly exceptional nutritional value of those in the USA. However, temptation got the best of us and we decided to give Pizza Hut a go. Oh my. Maybe it is because it had been over a year since I have had one, but let me tell you that supreme pan pizza was a mighty fine feed. Back to the boat with happy tummies, leftovers and my personal favorite, a surprise cook’s night off.
We checked into the USVI the following morning. We did not need provisions and decided to head out to a new spot. We went over to Red Hook but as a front was moving through, it was bad rainy and windy. Boats were bouncing so hard on their anchors that we could see bow thrusters coming out of the water. Not good. We’re outta here. Where to go? We want to hit Christmas Cove again when the weather clears up but today is definitely not the day. Chart and cruising guide book consultations ensued. What do you know? We headed over to St John and tucked up in Great Cruz Bay. It was covered up with private mooring balls but we were able to find a good spot with plenty of room.
We spent a few days there as the weather moved through and decided to try Red Hook again and are there at anchor tonight. The anchorage is much calmer except for the occasional ferry boat that blasts by, leaving us and everyone else rocking in their wake. Jackasses could wait 100 more feet before throttling up, but nooooo. In the afternoon we went into the marina for a few supplies. We saw Chris again who, having dropped off last week’s guests, had traveled all the way across from Christmas Cove in his ultra-sexy new 15 foot dinghy with 75 horsepower engine. A seriously nice ride awaits you when you charter with them!!

S/V SoulFish underway to BVIs. The headland of St Thomas and Christmas Cove:








A seaplane landing in Charlotte Amalie Harbour, St Thomas. Chris, Kelly and bad kitty whose name I can't remember of S/V Verna Breeze:







Shack construction in Great Cruz Bay, St John (not alot here except The Westin St John and shacks). I imagine the owners of the white house are probably kicking themselves for not buying the next lot over...why choke on the cost at this point???










Red Hook, St Thomas entrance and anchorage:










Every one who knows Chris has dinghy-envy...










We are planning to hang around here for another couple of days and then head on to one of our favorite places we have seen on this trip, the Spanish Virgin Islands off the coast of Puerto Rico.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

February 14-16 Anegada and Marina Cay

We took off the following morning for Anegada, 16 miles or so off-shore. It is called the drowned island as it is only 28 feet above sea level at its highest point, unlike the surrounding volcanic islands. We went to shore, rented a car and did a driving tour of all the beaches and beach bars, starting at the Cow Wreck which got its name after a boat full of cows sank and the survivors swam to Anegada. We also visited the salt ponds where they have reintroduced a now large flock of flamingos but unfortunately couldn’t get close enough for a picture. We had an afternoon lobster snack and returned to the boat for a nice Valentines evening.


































February 15th. Craig’s birthday!! Today we sailed over to Marina Cay, a small island with horseshoe reef across from Trellis Bay on Beef Island. We relaxed in the afternoon before proceeding to the hilltop bar at the Robb White house for happy hour. The main attraction is a singer named Michael Beans who does pirate sing alongs, conch horn-blowing contests, etc. He had a table full of rum shots and would dispense them to those bold enough to come on stage and make pirate toasts. The answer to your question is no. There were young children present. However, we arrived just in time for the birthday toast so Craig was able to partake.

We came back to the marina today and lo and behold, the autopilot is here and the fabricated mount is complete. I ran off to pick up the package while Craig waited on the tech who was en route. The entire job was done by 5pm. A huge relief. A salty boat beside us has been here a month for repairs. Their main engine died in Bermuda and they sailed the rest of the way here. Then, without charging ability, they burned out their entire battery bank. We pretty well stop whining when we hear a story like that. We will stay here one more day attending to maintenance and chores.











Will try again with the video....

February 11-13 Saba Rock

We stayed in the marina for two days to get the autopilot issue sorted out. To repair it would cost a $1200 part and $90/hour labor. A new motor/drive was $1400 duty/tax free and warrantied. We placed the order and hoped the dealer was on target with a 4 day delivery from the US. We decided to pull out of the marina and go play. We went around to the other side of Tortola and spent the night at The Bitter End and Saba Rock. We heard that the volcano dome on Monserrat had collapsed, sending ash and whatnot 6 miles into the air. No ash fall-out in our area but the skies were unusually hazy.

The Hooters boat and tender pulled up on the dock...no Hooters girls in sight.










Saba Rock and The Bitter End:











Saba Rock has a small aquarium with the anchor and other artifacts from The Rhone. Now, maybe it's just me but perhaps some of you will appreciate the humor in this memorial plaque. Or maybe it's not funny and someone just needs to write to the queen immediately. "the floundering ship". The word, friends, is "foundering".

































"Oh yes. Consuela. I saw her on her way to her next star."



Just when you think you have seen enough super yachts, along comes this. Burns 700 gallons AN HOUR. Many other interesting tidbits here: